Louhans, France 3 Day Mini Tour

When we reach the part of the cycle way where normally we’d hike through some woodland and down some steps, this time we decide to opt for the road as our bikes are loaded, but half way down there is a sign saying road closed. Oh no. Do we continue and see if we can squeeze our bikes through?

We are lucky to see a walker who tells us the road has collapsed but further down than where we will re-join the cycle track. Another Jura road succumbs to gravity and weather wear, there have been so many this year.

It’s a steep downhill but soon we are back on the track and straight into a tunnel, which we, of course, whoop through. Its long and a bit dark in places but its only us so we have fun.

Out the other side we cycle through Passieres and into Lons Le Saunier an old spa town. The baths are still open to the public. We were heading for the  Parc des Bains  with it's large pond with a fountain, it was sunny but there are two baby oak trees providing some shade. Perfect place for a picnic.

As we are eating, a water vole scurries into a clump of reeds, occasionally peeking out at us. Cute.

The route through the town is on the small roads and we cross the large junction via the pedestrian crossings, and then we are back on a cycle way.

It’s a little busier with bicycles now and there are barriers to wiggle round as the cycle way crosses many small country lanes, so no speeding.

Its pretty with fields, farmland, and woodland and we are smiling, although its hot. We stop by a hunting lodge to cool off in the shade and wet our neck buffs before cycling the final 10km into Louhans.

Again the roads through the town are quiet and we find the campsite with only one small diversion. The campsite is not busy but the first spot we pick is mozzie ridden so we choose another place a little further from the slow flowing murky river. There are still mozzies as the camp owner warned us, but not too bad.

We set up the tent, have a shower and go into town where we buy mozzie cream and a spray and a cold drink. We sit in the shade before wandering around the old town circuit twice looking at restaurants to choose, for the first time in a French town every restaurant has something both of us can eat!

We finally choose one only to be told they are not serving food this evening, okay. We choose another under the arches and have a lovely three course meal. Yum

It’s dark when we walk back to the tent, and we are soon snug in our sleeping bags. Its early but after the 74 km in the heat we are tired.

We hear several freight trains rumbles past, it’s a wiggle to get comfy. But we do get to sleep.

Day 2 returning to the Jura 58 KM 11 Aug 2021

After a million mile long train trundles past, a cockerel singing the day in before the sun is up, and a dustbin lorry beeping and flashing its first pickup we are awake. But feel good.

After a slow breakfast, we pack up and cycle into town to buy something for lunch later, take some photos and then we’re off. Two minutes later we are in the countryside on quiet lanes, through fields and villages with lovely old buildings with wooden Tudor-like beams but they are long and low Bressian style houses.

Its so very quiet and the cycling is easy, even the short gravel track was only a mild slope. The sun is hot and by midday we need shade and a cool down. Our wet neck buffs are dry. We spy a bench under some trees, park up and enjoy our food and the relative coolness. We lie down and could fall asleep but we don’t. We know the climb into the Jura is ahead of us, we can see the forested slopes. We have a choice, do we go into the town to find water or risk finding some in a village?

We set off towards the town but I spy a sign for the cemetery, there is always water at the cemeteries so the choice is made. The water comes from an old hand pump and once the snails and warm water are pumped out it is cool and clear. We use our water filter for the drinks bottles, just in case and soak our heads and buffs before starting the climb into the Jura.

We cycle up through vineyards and through a village with water fountains everywhere. Up and up we go, the views over where we had come from are far reaching.

We cycle up into the trees and for a while its cooler, which is good because we are both sweaty. The trees end and we are now cycling up a valley where the sun’s heat has been trapped. It’s steep, it’s hot. I put my bike into the lowest gear and plod up, not looking at how far it is or how steep, just plod, plod, up and up. Oh my. When we find a little shade from a tree we stop. I lean over my handlebars to find my breath, ah there it is. With full lungs and slightly rested bodies we continue. Another cyclist passes us and tells us we are nearly at the top. Kind man. And he’s right. Around the bend and there it is, the top of the hill. The views are worth the struggle. The Jura is so pretty.

It’s not the last up of the ride but it was the steepest and longest and we did it, fully laden. I am so proud of my legs and lungs.

We take a break and make a coffee before tackling the final hill of the day. There is only 9km to go. The last hill is climbed and we find a straight road, rare around here, that is slightly undulating but generally downhill. Bliss. We reach Orgelet, sooner than we thought we would, and search for a shop but failed. Ah well, we can manage with what we have. The old town is quiet as we nip through, then we cycle down and down forever down to Camping La Faz nestled at the bottom. I tuck away the thought of climbing back up in the morning and then grin with relief when the campsite owner says there is another way out, flatter. Phew.

We have a large pitch and no mozzies. The swimming pool is full of happy children so we give it a miss, it’s too busy and noisy. A shower is welcome though. We set up home, eat, snuggle and sleep.